Out for a Spin

We left Guerrero Negro to cross back over to the east side, ready to escape the town and find the wilds of the desert again, which we duly did. After the first day we camped in a particularly prickly spot a little way off the highway, forcing us to carry our bikes to protect the tyres and making us realise how many things we have that rely on not having holes in (water bags, sleeping mats, tent, tyres etc)!

After an easy second day we arrived in San Ignacio at lunch time, where we sat in the very pleasant town square for the afternoon, chatting to fellow travellers and resting the legs. Lync arrived, followed by a couple from Germany – Retna and Patrick, also on bikes. They had just walked the continental divide from Mexico to Canada and now they are cycling to Argentina…as you do!

We pushed on towards Santa Rosalia, feeling like we have friends on the road as we could see cyclists up ahead (Ratna and Patrick) and a cyclist behind (Lync) we also had many friendly toots and waves from people in vans who we had met in the square the day before. The hills and the head wind were pretty hectic, making it very hard going, I took up my old ways and started swearing at the hills…this doesn’t make them any easier, but it does make me feel better. Pushed through Santa Rosalia to a beautiful spot right on the beach at San Lucas.

Watched a spectacular sunrise to bring in my birthday and cycled the short hop to the green and lush town of Mulege where we swam, drank beer, ate cake and relaxed for the afternoon before going out for a meal. There was a birthday party at the restaurant and when they sang happy birthday I pretended it was for me and Sam inserted my name…wouldn’t know the difference !

The thing about Baja is that there is not a lot here…most of the peninsula is desert, dotted with small towns along the single main road. People come here to enjoy that emptiness and outdoor lifestyle and we are passed by many a camper with all the toys on board…from bikes to boats and everything in between. This lifestyle suits us just fine, especially now the rain has stopped and the temperatures are climbing.

We hopped our way along the east coast, camping, soaking in hot springs and battling with 25miles of dirt road. Met another cyclist for the first time since entering Mexico – a young Australian called Lync, travelling on a mountain bike with a very heavy trailer, wearing a floppy camo hat and sharing our peanut butter addiction! We have spent the last week or so leap frogging him, cycling together at times and camping together in the desert. The dirt road was a challenge, it comprised of what seemed like endless rumble strip style bumps and rocks but the scenery was spectacular and felt like we were properly out in the wilds…nobody there, other than Coco. Coco is an old Mexican man with legs as far as his knees, who lives on his own in the middle of the desert, walking around on homemade leather knee pads and inviting travellers in for a drink or somewhere to stay…fascinating character and a bit of a legend among the travel community.

The dirt road gave way to the beautifully smooth surface of highway 1 and we travelled swiftly towards Gurrero Negro, crossing the peninsula again. The desert is a crazy place, so unlike anywhere I have been before, the weirdest thing it that the cacti don’t move in the wind, they just stand there tall, straight, spiked and unmoving, almost mocking us as we pass by. Maybe I am losing the plot!

Gurrero Negro is not an inspiring town but the grey whales that come to the lagoons to have their babies were truly inspiring! We had our first encounters on the Californian coast, near Ventura, and more than 900 cycling miles later we meet again…who knows, some of them might actually be the same ones. It was incredible being out in such a small boat surrounded by ballenas, some so close we could have reached out to touch them. The air full of the noises of them blowing, surfacing and splashing. Awesome.

The last few days have been those of contrast and emotions have been very high and very low. There is no other time that you feel the terrain and the weather quite so keenly than from a seat of a bike.

The roads out of Ensenada were flooded, sandy and full of holes, we headed up hill for our biggest single climb of the trip so far…25miles of gradual ascent to Ojos Negros at 2290ft. We reached the hotel and rain set in so we donned all of our warmest clothes, got into bed and stayed hidden for the afternoon. This theme continued as we left the next day in torrential and freezing rain, we lost the sensation in our toes within minutes, it was due to be a long day. The only advantage of rain and cold is that we cycle faster and stop less.

Thankfully the weather dried out the next day as we left Valle De Trinidad. The small mountain town turned out to be a maze of wet, sandy streets with hundreds (I never exaggerate) of vicious dogs biting at our heels and wheels. Once safely back on the number 3 we headed up hill with heavy legs and then the reward…20miles of descent. We floated through barren mountains and cold sandy deserts to the Sea of Cortez. From there it was flat…flat, straight and directly into the wind for what seemed like a lifetime. As 78miles ticked over on the clock we entered San Filipe, tired but satisfied to complete a monster day and reach ‘the other side’.