Four Out for a Spin in Juan the Van

Mum and Dad left us a couple of days ago, it was sad to see them go after a really lovely few weeks, Mum has written a guest blog, offering a different insite into our lives over the past few weeks…

We wondered how it would be, joining Laura and Sam for two weeks, six months and 4000 miles into their travelling. We changed their mode of transport, added two parents and occasionally slightly upgraded their accommodation and menus.

Cancun was a mega resort not requiring further investigation, so we set off south immediately, the bikes and baggage nestling amongst the seats of our minibus. Sadly no room to pick up locals who often tried to wave us down, mistaking us for the local “collectivos”.

A grass-roofed cabaña amongst palm trees on the white sand of Tulum was a good start, and any anxieties about the four of us sharing were quickly dispelled when it seemed the logical course to take. In Mahahual, we stayed with Dutch AirB&B hosts, Albert and Justa, our only pre-booked rooms, where we each had our own cabins in the garden. We kayaked and snorkelled over the coral reef, celebrated our 30th wedding anniversary, and barbecued a large fish one evening, sitting round the fire on the beach under the stars.

Laura and Sam were keen to take us into the mountains to San Cristobal de las Casas via ruins in the jungle at Palenque and, although a long drive, it was worth the effort to leave the hot flat plains of Yucatan. They had already cycled this route the other way and it made us realise what a feat it was! Hot, humid and hilly, climbing from jungle to the town 2000m above sea level, where the climate was much cooler. To make the journey more interesting, this is bandit country. Lovely to see the indigenous people in their colourful embroidered clothes, but never very comfortable. We were stopped by a rope across the road and a woman and children demanded money. Thankfully nothing more serious, but disconcerting nonetheless. Are you more, or less vulnerable on a bike?

San Cristobal was a town with a relaxed feel, and we understood why L&S were happy to return.

Other highlights include swimming amongst stalectites in cavernous “cenotes ” (sink-holes) with turtles; climbing enormous pyramids of Mayan ruins and overlooking the tree canopy of the jungle. Extraordinary places, these ruined cities. And our last two nights on the blue-blue lake Bacalar.

Things I have learned: Mexicans carry umbrellas for sun and rain; it’s hard to avoid hundreds of butterflies when driving; “topes” (speed bumps) concentrate the mind (a pain on a bike!); some Mexicans look miserable (because of their moustaches?); black bean mush is served with most meals (not brilliant); cycling in the heat is hard; cycling is a great way to see places.

Our tiny insight into the lives of Laura and Sam as cycle-tourists has given us some idea of the enormous achievement already accomplished, through much sweat and tears. They have made us welcome into their world, been patient and generous, impressed us with their Spanish, and firmly told me not to stop at a gathering in the mountains which was probably a Zapatista meeting about the next road block!
They may have been worried about loosing fitness, but I’m sure the break will have done their bodies good. I think they enjoyed: our company; being tour-guides and interpreters; going to out of the way places; not having to cycle the endless long straight roads; telling us of their adventures; buying a few things for us to take home; Laura wearing something different for the first time in 6 months; listening to everyone’s playlists in Juanthevan, singing and jigging along, and Sam his drive, zig-zagging through the potholes.

They are looking forward to moving on to Belize, after four months in Mexico. We would love to go with them…..but I think they’ll prefer to return to just the two of them!